Chris Collins

Tools · building

Drywall, paint and tile

Plan a tiled floor or wall to scale — straight, ½ or ⅓ offset, herringbone or diagonal — with the layout shifted to avoid slivers, every cut size, the starting lines to snap, tiles and boxes, thinset and grout; plus drywall sheets chosen for the fewest butt joints with screws, mud and tape, paint by surface and coat, and plank or sheet flooring.

Added

How to use it

The finishing trades' take-offs in one place. The tile planner is the main event: draw the room, pick the tile, joint and pattern, and it shows every tile to scale — full tiles, cuts with their sizes, and the cuts that are too small — then moves the layout so the smallest cut is as big as it can be, and tells you where to snap the starting lines.

How to use it

  • Tile layout — the room is a rectangle, an L-shape (a notch out of the back-right corner) or any outline you type as corner coordinates. Give the tile size, grout joint and thickness, the pattern (straight, brick with a ½ or ⅓ offset, or herringbone) and the angle (square, 45° diagonal, or turned). Layout start:

    • Auto tries the pattern at a grid of offsets across one repeat and keeps the one whose smallest cut is largest (then the fewest small cuts, then the fewest tiles). This is the “centre the layout so you don’t get slivers” step, done exhaustively.

    • Tile centred or joint on the centre — the two classic choices; compare them.

    • Joint on centre + my shift — nudge it yourself (½″ or 10 mm steps) to put full tiles at a doorway or the most visible wall. The drawing colours full tiles, cuts (with the cut size printed on them) and small cuts — below your limit (¼, ⅓ or ½ of a tile) or under 2″ — in red. The orange lines are the starting lines: grout-joint centres to snap with a chalk line, dimensioned from the left and front walls. For a rectangular room you also get the four border cuts. Quantities: every full tile and every cut piece takes a tile, plus your breakage allowance; boxes by tiles per box or ft² per box; thinset by trowel notch (about 100, 90, 65 or 42 ft² a 50 lb bag for 3/16″ V, ¼×¼, ¼×⅜ and ½×½ square notches — typical bag figures); grout by the formula grout makers print, (A+B)/(A·B) × depth × joint × 1.6 kg/L. Optional cement board in 3×5 sheets with screws, mortar and tape.

  • Drywall — rooms with length, width, ceiling height, doors and windows. Walls are hung horizontally and ceilings across the joists; for 8′, 10′ and 12′ sheets (and 54″ widths for 9′ walls) it counts sheets, butt joints and seam lengths, and picks the size with the fewest butt joints — the hard ones to finish. Screws (about one per ft² of wall, 1¼ per ft² of ceiling), ready-mixed mud (about 138 lb per 1,000 ft²), paper tape (every seam, inside corner and wall-ceiling angle, +10%) and corner bead.

  • Paint — the same rooms. Coverage per gallon per coat depends on the surface (400 ft² for smooth, 350 light texture, 250 heavy texture or popcorn, 300 bare wood, 150 masonry); coats, primer, ceilings, baseboard, casings and doors both sides; rounded to pails, gallons and quarts.

  • Flooring — planks (boxes with the waste for straight, diagonal or herringbone, the number of courses, and whether to rip the first and last courses so neither is a sliver) or sheet goods from 6′, 12′ or 13′2″ rolls with the seams it takes.

Units: Feet & inches accepts 10' 6-1/2, 126.5 or 3.2 m; Metric takes millimetres. Every figure marked as typical is a rule of thumb — the bag, can or box in your hand wins.

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